A year’s worth of weather, but not in the right order!
Back in “sunny” August, John & Elspeth Harding, Bob & Trish Hammett and myself walked another section of the GR5 footpath (which goes from Amsterdam to Nice, although the best section is from Lake Geneva to Nice). As we only had one week, we chose to start in Les Houches (near Chamonix) and walked south to Landry, over three and a half days, about 45 miles across the Alps.
The weather forecast for the week was not encouraging, with rain predicted for most of time we would be walking. Bob, Trish and I took the train to Les Houches, whilst John and Elspeth flew. The train trip took 12 hours and six trains, a leisurely and enjoyable journey, but flying is a lot faster and possibly cheaper!
Spring. The first day’s walk was from Les Houches, up over a ridge into the Les Contamines valley, to the Chalet Refuge de Nant Borrant at the end of the valley (15 miles). As predicted in the morning the weather was wet as we set off, full waterproofs needed. On the descent into Les Contamines we stopped in an auberge for a warming coffee. By the time we had reached Les Contamines the sun was coming out, time to pack away the waterproofs, which happened to involve a beer stop too. Then on up the valley to the overnight stop. Here more beer was needed to rehydrate and an excellent set menu dinner was provided.
Winter. Day two continued up the valley, over the Col de Croix Bonhomme (8000 ft) and on to the Refuge Plan de la Laie, on the road over the Cormet de Rosland (12.5 miles). As we left the refuge, again the weather was poor although not raining. We set off with t-shirt and shorts on, which was sufficient as the path was upwards. Taking the only opportunity
before lunch we stopped at the next refuge for a coffee, where other walkers on the way down said that it was snowing at the top. As we climbed higher rain started, which gradually turned to sleet and long before we reached the top we were in a full blown blizzard. Needless to say the waterproofs had been put on when the rain had started. At the col it was hard to stand up in the wind, the snow as thick on the ground and in the air. On the far side of the col was a refuge where we stopped for lunch and a beer. It was a welcome place to warm up and swap stories with fellow walkers. It is shortly after here that the paths for the GR5 and the Tour du Mont Blanc part company. As the weather was so bad we were not able to take the proper route across the Crete des Grittes, a fine ridge walk, but had to take track down to the road and follow the road to the overnight stop. A miserable walk in heavy rain. This refuge was a big contrast to the previous night, very basic (no mains electricity, only cold showers), but it was dry and had beer!
Autumn. Day three dawned cold and sunny. Fantastic! Today’s route took us past the Lac de Rosland, over the Col e Bresson (9000 ft), a beautiful valley to the village of Vezelan, where we had a hotel booked (13 miles). Today was summer, warm and sunny all day. A gorgeous day’s walk through great mountain scenery, which, after a picnic near the col, included a beer stop in the afternoon further down the valley. The Auberge Le Vezelan was the only hotel in the village, served a good dinner, had hot showers and a good supply of beer. A good stop in all!
Summer. The last day was a short one, only 5 miles, down to Landry, summer was at its height now, hot sun at last. Here we had arranged for a taxi to take us back to Les Houches. The following day I travelled home, the remaining party had a couple of days to enjoy Chamonix before travelling home. The rest of the GR5 to the Med will be completed in coming episodes, to follow in the years ahead….!
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